Rock Climbing Techniques
There are a lot of rock climbing techniques which when followed will ensure you have an enjoyable adventure. Though most of the information is with assumption that you are already an experienced rock climber, a novice can actually find some of the common mistakes committed by other climbers and learn as to how to avoid them.
There are some rope systems which are commonly used in mountaineering and rock climbing. If you are an avid rock climber or an aspiring rock climber it is very necessary that you learn about the single, double and the twin rope systems used in rock climbing. You will also have an idea of which is the right kind of climbing rope that you should go in for.
Rope systems are principally of three types ?
? Single rope system
This is the commonly used system and it is suitable to be used for climbing routes which are straight. Single rope system is enough most of the times on single and even multipitch routes. The protection has to be in a straight line.
This system is therefore mostly used in sport routes where normally the bolts are placed in straight lines.
If the protection is zigzag and not straight what happens is there is more rope drag which is the friction caused while running through the extenders, runners or quickdraws.
When this friction becomes too much, which happens in a fall, then the protection is pulled out and as a result the system is not so secure anymore. On the single rope systems, the rope drag can be reduced to a great extend by using long extenders. Doing this will make the lines straight.
If you are however not going in for straightforward routes the it is better to go in for the double rope system as this would be more practical and safer.
A sixty meter rope for example with a system that uses a single rope achieves a maximum abseil of half the length i.e. around thirty metres. As compared to those systems that use twin or double ropes , the single rope system is thus not that durable as the drag on the rope is more.
? Double rope system
This is the system used the most. This is maybe because it is a flexible system, at least much more flexible than the system of single-rope.
The system that uses double rope is very safe as it reduces or cuts out rope drag to a great extent. It is therefore very safe as compared to the single system. The system frequently used for ice-climbing, mountaineering and traditional rock climbing is the double rope system.
Carrying the double ropes can be shared between the two people going on rock climbing. Tying the ropes together ensure full length making abseiling possible.
Thickness of the double ropes is about 8 to 9mm and these ropes are safer and durable. Owing to all these advantages, the double rope system is much more expensive than the single rope system.
? Twin-rope system
This system is not very popular but is sometimes used in multipitch routes. This system involves using 2 twin-ropes in a single-rope system where both the twin ropes go through the point of protection.
Twin rope system is also susceptible to rope drag just as in the single rope system. This can be avoided by using the double rope system technique whereby an abseil that has the length of full-rope can be made from twin ropes by tying them together.
Width of the twin ropes is around 7 to 8 mm. Twin rope system is also more expensive than the single rope system. Different rope systems have different types of ropes specially manufactured for them.
It is advisable not to mix the ropes for example you should not use the rope designed for a single rope system in a double or twin rope system. If you are a novice and want to determine which is the best rope system suited to you, you can try out various systems in an indoor gym or take the advice of an expert rock climber.
Tying in
The technique of attaching the rope to the harness is called tying in and is a very important technique in the sport of rock climbing. If you are leading or belaying you have to necessarily be tied in. Tying in involves the use of certain techniques and ways to tie the knots.
When you are using a harness, it is better to follow the manufacturer?s guidelines carefully as specifications in the harness vary. For climbers who are young or who is a novice a full body harness is usually recommended.
If you are climbing without a backpack you can use the sit harness. If you are carrying a backpack you will have to use the sit harness along with the chest harness. Knots ? the figure eight follow through is the most commonly used knot. The important thing to remember is that after the knot is tied, it should be of the same size as the abseil loop on the harness.
By tying in you have actually created a belay loop which should be used to hold the belay device if required. You have to make sure you don?t use the abseil loop on the harness for this purpose.
Thus, tying in is the link that holds you to the rope and therefore this has to be done very carefully and in the correct manner.
Belaying
Belaying involves keeping the climber secure during his climb. This is one of the most important techniques in rock climbing. To ensure absolute safety for the belayer and the climber we have to make sure we choose the correct belaying device and method.
There are a lot of techniques with which you can belay a person. The most commonly used technique is the Semi Direct Belay. This technique contains four parts ?
The first step involves creating an equalizer anchor which can be single or multiple points. This actually depends on the weight of the climber and the weight and stance of the belayer.
The second step involves creating a belay loop by tying the end of the rope into the climbing harness.
Attaching yourself to the anchor is the third step. Being a belayer, you should remember to be attached tight to the anchor in line with the direction of loading. The final step involves attaching the belay device to the belay loop. In this method the anchor supports the fall load and the belay with the use of the rope to the anchor, belayer and the belay device.
Leading
Leading a climb is referred to as leading. Placing or attaching a protection while ascending is actually leading. This climbing technique generally requires a leader and a follower. This climbing technique is done in parts or sections. The leader even while he is ascending puts the protections. As he goes up, the second climber or the follower removes the protection as he climbs up. As the follower also reaches the top, they start the second pitch.
If you are going to be leading for the first time, there are a few things you have to remember and be careful about.
Knowing how to place the extenders correctly and how to clip the rope through it is very important before you go in for leading. You must also remember to place protections as you go up and attach the rope using carabiners.
Staying calm and focused helps. Protection must be placed every 1 to 1.5 meters. If you find it difficult to climb or if the climbing becomes difficult and hard, it makes sense to climb down a little.
Rope drag has to be avoided at any cost. This can be done by placing the protection correctly and also using extenders of the right length. Leading thus is a dangerous preposition for the leader as he is the one who has to go up without any protections which have been placed earlier. It is advisable to take enough precautions and safety measures before heading out to lead.
Abseiling
Descending with the help of a rope which is fixed is called abseiling. This procedure is also referred to as rappelling. This is usually done while trying new routes for climbing, when the access is difficult to the start of the climb or when you have to go to the base of the climb after the climb is over.
Abseiling is actually a technique which is quite dangerous. There are a lot of risks involved in this. For example, the climbing rope could get jammed, the equipment could fail, and ropes could get cut through sharp rock edges among many other things.
Abseiling requires certain equipments and gears. These include belay devices, ropes, descenders, climbing harness, climbing helmet, carabiners, anchors, knee pads, elbow pads, gloves, etc.
Safety measures which have to be followed during abseiling include ?
? The necessary equipment and devices have to be in place. This has to be made sure.
? Make sure you have a back up anchor.
? Check if the rocks or loose or the edges are sharp before positioning the ropes on them.
? You should definitely know how the prussik knot has to be tied. This is actually a backup system while abseiling.
? If your hair is long, make sure your abseiling device does not get entangled with your hair.
? Before attempting any rock climbing technique, especially abseiling, it is important to be well prepared, be knowledgeable about the various aspects of rock climbing, have all the equipments and gears handy, physically and mentally be fit, alert and ready, and have a clear understanding of the possible risks involved.
? Due to the high risks involved, abseiling should be done only by people who have enough experience in climbing and also under the supervision of trained climbers.
Lowering
Getting down or descending from a climb is called lowering. This is one of the common methods that is used after the belayer makes sure it is safe for the climber to climb down. As in abseiling, in lowering too the climber must make sure there are no sharp edged rocks and that the devices are securely placed. The climber and belayer work together after the top roped climb. The rope is let out by the belayer as the climber descends.
If the route through which the climber descends has short and steep walls, lowering technique is used. This is actually used to speed up the descending process. The climber can be lowered by his belayer after his climbing session if he is with a party of three or more. This would be more practical. There are two methods that could be used for lowering. These are the Italian Hitch lowering and the Semi Direct method.
Apart from lowering, rappelling and walking are also techniques used to climb down. If you are going to be descending with the lowering technique, there has to be a clear communication between you and the belayer
Related posts:
- Common Rock Climbing Calls
- Rock Climbing Equipment
- Rock Climbing Styles: Solo Climbing
- Rock Climbing Styles: Sport Climbing
- Rock Climbing Styles: Traditional Trad Climbing
- Rock Climbing Styles: Scrambling
- Rock Climbing For Women
- Rock Climbing Styles: Ice Climbing
- Journaling And Recording Your Rock Climbing Trips
- Rock Climbing Styles: Indoor Climbing
- Rock Climbing Gifts
- Rock Climbing And Aching Joints
- Rock Climbing TIPS: Back Clipping And Other Common Mistakes
- Rock Climbing Guides
- Rock Climbing Training Boards
Source: http://www.e-self-help.com/rock-climbing-techniques/
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